Building a Pattern Library

Learning how to draft your own patterns is daunting. A lucky few can do it right from the start, but the rest of us have to learn by copying patterns and learning how to alter them. You'll need some patterns to copy -- which is why you might build a pattern library.

"Basic" patterns

These patterns are the basic building blocks of most costume design. In most cases, this kind of pattern is a starting point for drafting your own. For example, a basic shirt can be evolved into part of a Sailor Star outfit with the addition of a sailor collar. In general, basic patterns are very useful for skirts / dresses, collars, and sleeves. These things go around a part of your body. A two-dimensional pattern for a sleeve may look funny until you see it made in three dimensions.

Most of these patterns can be found in general sewing or stage costuming books. There are also some commerical basic patterns: you'll get a pattern for a jumpsuit and instructions for doing several variations (sleeved v. sleeveless, different fabric on top and bottom, etc.).

Commerical patterns

These are patterns that you buy at a store or on-line. They are usually designed to make a few variations on the outfit shown on the front of the package. You'll rarely be lucky enough to find a pattern that exactly matches a costume. Most of the time, you try find something that is pretty close.

As you become more skilled, you may want to buy patterns that match a particular part of a costume or demonstrates a specific technique. For example, you might buy a jacket pattern to see how to do a collar and lapels. [When we see a pattern that might be useful, but we don't need it right now, we'll add it to our "Pattern List". The list is handy if there's a sale on patterns from a certain company. - Sugar Bomb]

Personal patterns

Personal patterns are pieces that you've made for yourself, like modifications for a previous costume. Some costume elements can be easily recycled. For example, if you built gloves with a furry cuff for one costume, you can take out your glove pattern and modify it to make guantlets. Even if you think you can re-create your work later, take notes of what you did to alter a piece. [There have been times where I've looked at something I did a year ago and been surprised by what I was able to cook up! - Daifuku]

Other stuff

As you get better at drafting patterns, it might help to keep pictures of finished outfits from magazines, etc. You can get hints on generalcostume construction, especially if you can't find any back or side shots for a character. Sometimes, it's nice to see real-world examples of very difficult costumes. Character designers don't have to pay attention to physics or other constraints of reality. If someone else has been able to get that set of jewels to look like they are hovering around the costumer, you know that you can do it do it too. It may take some blood, sweat, and tears to do it, but it is possible.

References can be found almost everywhere. For example, from Hong Kong action films, Brigitte Lin's hairdo from The Bride with the White Hair is a lot like Hinoto's (from X). Some modern fashion designers dabble in the unusual, like form-fitting jumpsuits with asymmetrical scallops. Costume designers for Hollywood science-fiction films look for unusual fabrics. If you're lucky, you can find production details that tell exactly what was used. Otherwise, the pictures can help guide you on your search through a fabric warehouse.


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